![]() From India and the Philippines to Martinique, Haiti and Peru, cane spirits reign. Rum is distilled from fermented sugarcane juice, syrup or molasses and its global variation can make it tricky to pin down. “It’s made in more than 90 countries, which makes it the most diverse spirit,” she says. Rum is a spirit category that still eludes widespread affection in the U.S. I started in the traditional south with Appleton, Wray & Nephew, Mount Gay. “People could see things that they recognized and understood. And back then, many of their regulars were residents in the neighborhood descended from Jamaica, Trinidad or Barbados. But culturally, rum was a good fit for Glady’s, a Crown Heights restaurant serving Afro Caribbean fare. They worried the spirit was too sweet, and on the tiki side, Mustipher was concerned her drinks would be perceived as syrupy fillers. Mustipher knew that even inquisitive drinkers didn’t know much about rum. “I wanted to make tiki recipes more forward-looking, to signal to the reader this was a fresh take, but still within context,” Mustipher says. Even shochu and vodka make elegant appearances. Her Wingman features brown butter-washed rum, Campari and lime leaf-infused falernum poured into a can of good pineapple cider, a delightful turn. She goes big in Port of Call, a boozy overproof combo featuring arrack, allspice dram and tangerine juice. In 90 recipes, Mustipher puts her stamp on tiki. She can rest easy - anywhere her drinks are is a place you want to go. Mustipher hopes her book will transport readers. The book gives a nod to the tiki canon and a new frontier of island-inspired drinks, from the earthy Martiniquais Ti’ Punch with white agricole blanc, to the bright Parasol made with banana syrup. Mustipher’s book is what she calls a “theater for the senses” where, as in her home bar, calypso, zouk and mambo tunes meet verdant plants and colorful décor, and cocktails come alongside plates of curry goat, jerk chicken, and ackee with saltfish. Shannon Mustipher, the resident rum expert at Glady’s Caribbean in Brooklyn, has just published “Tiki: Modern Tropical Cocktails,” the first cocktail recipe book written by a working African American bartender and released by a major publisher in more than 100 years. ![]()
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